While we were growing up in the 1970's, Coron Island, which we all referred to as Calis, was a mysterious island. It was a large island made mostly of rock and home to the Tagbanuas. We did not really go there. My Lola Ana would tell me stories that when our ancestors, Laurente Sandoval and his wife Estefania Rodriguez, first arrived from Iloilo in the 1800's, their first settlement was at Banuang Daan. It was never clear to me if they established Banuang Daan or if it was already a Tagbanua village. However, constant raids from pirates forced them to move further inland and settle in Busuanga Island (what is now Maquinit and the surrounding areas). Or at least this is what I was told and what I remember.
Whenever we were aboard the MV Antonia on the way to Manila or on the way back, I would always try to look out and catch a glimpse of this mysterious island. The problem was, the ship would usually pass that area either at night or at dawn. My first time to set foot in one of the beaches there must have been 1975 or 76. I was already Grade 5 and Mama's office at Coron School of Fisheries had a picnic on June 24 to celebrate the Feast of St John the Baptist. That time, there was some "basaan" during "Piyetsa ni San Juan", but not to the level of the Wattah-wattah Festival in the City of San Juan in MMla. But people would also celebrate that day by going to beach, usually at CYC. But this one time we went to one of the beaches in Coron Island. I think it was either Atuayan or Caliwantay. I was so fascinated to see that what looks like a big hulking bluish island from afar was an island full of lush green trees that seem to sprout from rocks and that its coastline was full of pocket beaches and coves with aquamarine waters. I remember excitedly talking about it to Lola and Papa over the dinner table that night. I have a photo sitting on top of one of the rocks but I cannot find it at the moment.
Sometime in the '80's the Coronians started being aware of the many hidden treasures of Calis or Coron Island as it is labeled in maps. At first, it was said that there were seven lakes within the island. Later I heard someone say there were nine and much later, a Tagbanua told me there were thirteen. According to Al Linsangan, the actual number is twelve (this is official data). The largest being Lake Cabugao. Two of these lakes are open to tourists namely Kayangan Lake and Luluyuan Lake (more popularly known as Barracuda Lake, due to the presence of said fish in that lake).
Kayangan is, without any argument, Coron's most famous tourist attraction. While it is true that what first attracted the outside world were the Dive Sites, specifically the shipwrecks, it was Coron Island, more specifically, Kayangan Lake, that attracted the majority of tourists. It is what sets Coron apart from El Nido and other destinations. It is the Crown Jewel of Coron Tourism. When I was still leading our tours, Kayangan would almost always be my first stop. Coming from the Superferry, or the plane, guests would normally be tired and maybe impatient, but once the banca approaches the entrance to the Kayangan area, and guests see the majestic towering cliffs of Coron Island, irritation and impatience give way to awe and the selfie sessions begin...
Sharing photos of Kayangan Lake that I have taken over the years.
One of two entrances to the lagoon that leads to Kayangan Lake. Photo was taken from the Kayangan wharf.
The trail going up to the lake
The cave somewhere near the highest part of the trail
The views from the top of the trail
This is normally one's first view of the lake
Kayangan Lake
Another cave, this one at the lake itself
In November 2014, candidates for the Miss Earth Beauty Pageant visited Coron and CATE, our tourism association, partnered with the LGU in playing host to the candidates. First in the itinerary was Kayangan Lake.
Miss Earth 2014 Candidates at Kayangan Lake.
Kayangan is also my kids favorite destination because, in the words of a twelve year-old Ella, "it has no currents, no jellyfish, and no sea urchins! Here are photos of my kids enjoying Kayangan back when they were still adorable :-)
My youngest son inside the cave (note: do not leave your children unattended)
My two older kids with their cousins
My two boys having fun at Kayangan Lake.
Again, please do NOT leave your kids unattended at Kayangan Lake. It is also strongly recommended that you book a tour with a licensed tour guide.
Being Coron's Crown Jewel also means that it is something that must be preserved and protected. The site's carrying capacity must be studied, determined, and enforced strictly and fairly. The Tagbanuas, who communally own the island, the LGU, and the private sector must all work together to ensure that Kayangan does not deteriorate. The pandemic has enabled the lake to rest and rejuvenate. If it is determined that there is a need to close the lake for a certain period every year, then so be it.
Kayangan Lake, a MUST see destination in Coron. See you there!
Note: Shameless plugging, you may book a packaged tour with My Blue Backpack, a travel and tour company. But only if you want a hassle free tour....
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